Sunday, 31 July 2016

Update from India 49


This Month:
Comment
The Monsoon
The Garden
Bleu' 
Wedding and Engagement
Night out with friends from IBR.
Our battle against Malaria continues.
Comments from Kris.





Comment.
Winter is coming.

Every year as winter approaches following the monsoon we see people huddled around fires on the roadside. They burn what they can find, sometimes plastic, mostly wood and waste.
Winter to the foreign tourist is a warm pleasant climate, 5degC at night with relatively warm days of about 25degC. This lasts from December to February. For Indians (and acclimatised foreigners like us) that is cold!
Every year Christine suffers pain with her metal knee joints, especially in the evenings as the temperature drops. Normally we try and keep the main room warm with an electric radiator. This is both expensive to run and largely ineffective. This year things are set to change. I have been building a wood burning stove from a damaged old gas bottle (the gas man refused to take it because of a big dent in the side). Instead of scrapping it we recycled it into this.We intend to run it on charcoal so it will be clean heat and gives potash for the garden. I cut the dent out where the door is and hammered the door into shape.
When it is up and running we will do an article on it in the blog.
 Kris black leading the stove and the nearly finished stove.
.
This led us to consider what we could do to help the poor and the road dwellers in the city this winter.
We cannot deliver fuel but we can deliver warm clothes.
Yesterday Chris and I (mostly Kris) tipped out all the wardrobes and divided into 3 heaps, keep, give away and work clothes for the garden. We ended up with 4 black bags of clothes and material we are going to donate. It is not all winter clothing there are some summer shirts, salwar tops, sheets and jeans that must have shrunk because they don’t fit me anymore (hee hee).
What cannot be worn or used can be sold by the poor, any extra income helps.
We are going to try to encourage others around us and through the NGO to also contribute what they can. With a little publicity and support, this is a way to help that can really make a difference. So many of us have clothes we will never wear again in our cupboards, make space and help others. We hope in this way we can alleviate to some degree the hardship poor people endure through the winter.
If this is successful we may well repeat it next year on a larger scale. It is something that costs nothing and directly improves lives. Distribution is one problem we haven't solved yet but we will with Gods help.


The monsoon
 With apologies for some of the pics but it was very misty.


                              The lakes are nearly full                                  Really humid, yep that's 95%


                                                                          One of the lakes overspill


The roads flood very quickly

 This was the first real rain this year



Now it's full on monsoon rain

Its hard even from these pictures to appreciate just how much water falls in a short time.
In our drive we have 2" in 15 minutes. Just think, this can go on for 24hrs or longer. the run-off is
massive. Floods everywhere then it slowly drains away over three or four hours in most places. Rajasthan is very rocky and sandy ground so we have super drainage.....good job really isn't it. Some states are not so lucky. Each year hundreds to thousands (no exaggeration here) die in floods. Whole villages can be washed away, farms ruined, animals drowned. the rain is so necessary yet can cause such great suffering.


                                                                                                        



This is the view from our side window                                                                                                                                                                                                                              
 And this is our lawn!



The Garden


Bleu is fascinated by the chickens in the garden at the front. We have separated the cockerels
and the hens. The 10 hens are now in the back garden coop and very happy with 1 cockerel.
The other 5 cockerels are in the front kitchen garden eating pests and fertilizing the ground.
When they are big enough we will dispatch them to the freezer. We were going to sell them 
but decided that it makes more sense to do this as we get wonderful free range chicken to eat.
No chemicals, no fattening agents just naturally fed plump chicken.


Weed, feed, and fatten up!




Compost bins emptied out onto the garden


Mulched with grass cuttings

Our new seed trays. they don't dry out so easily
and the seedlings can be left in longer with no 
danger of being too cramped.





Sweet pea's attempt number three. Try as we might we have never succeeded in getting
a decent number of blooms. This year we are planting much earlier (that's two months earlier) in
the middle of the monsoon to give them as long as we can before the summer sun burns them off.



Look carefully and you can see them just coming up.



We have managed to save the roses which is quite an achievement considering our water crisis at
the end of the summer. There are four plants all looking good. Weed and feed next.


                                      Cucumber growing well, flowers on them so fruit soon.



                                                                             Our shady path to the back garden.
                                                                           This used to be the cess pit cover.
                                                                          This has changed the whole look
                                                                         it now feels more like a jungle.


Bleu' mini and Full size



     Looking her best for the photo                                                                We shrank her.
                                                                                                             Can you spot mini Bleu'?


                                                                 Pooped!


Wedding and an engagement.





Attending our friend Manchirag's engagement party

                                                  Sanya arriving looking stunning



They make a really lovely couple

                                                       Kris approves



 A very nervous Manchirag awaiting
Sanya's arrival.



Guests enjoying the occasion. We have attended several Sikh weddings and parties and have always been impressed by the good behaviour of all the guests. Note that there is a free bar with beer soft drinks and spirits available. We have never seen a drunk Sikh, not even mildly drunk. Their sense of honour and self-respect, and their respect for others pervades all they do and say. If this had been the UK with free alcoholic drinks it would in most cases have had a completely different result. I am sorry to say that a free bar at a party like this would probably be a disaster with some guests falling down drunk because they would not have the same respect either for themselves or their host. I am not saying that this would happen in every case. Suffice it to say I personally would not risk it at a function I organised.
The food was absolutely first class both veg and non veg were catered for. I have to admit I came home completely fried chickened out. Not only was there a continuous supply of food being served throughout the evening but there was also Dinner later on. A really great occasion that we both enjoyed very much. 


 The couple with her parents. We have known Mr Singh Hoda since coming here. A gentleman.


We were very honoured to be invited to the Sikh temple to witness the ceremony there. 
This took place the day before the party. Chris wore his turban (yes he has his own) as men and women must cover all hair. I wore a salwar and white shawl.






At the Sikh temple. Here for the first time they are 
acknowledged as being a couple. 


Garlands are placed around the couple's necks
to signify the joining of both the couple and
the families through this impending marriage.

     This is the strength of the Indian family. Not only
do the couple join but so do the entire families.
 In this way, the support structure becomes ever stronger.



One room at the Royal Retreat Hotel 
where the party was held

How about this then. Yes those are real tusks
     and the furniture is silver.

                                                                                                            Fantastic room



Sorry about the quality but these were taken on my phone.
All at the Royal Retreat Udaipur. A really first class hotel
way out of our price range! We spent  a little time just
admiring the chairs and table. All around the rooms there
are silver fittings and the most wonderful art works, some
dating from hundreds of years ago. The sword and personal
combat weapons are well worth seeing.



Below a selection of photos from Manchirag's cousin's wedding we attended the night before Manchirag's engagement. We had a wonderful time and even met up with old friends and students.

Wedding guests eating and relaxing


Guests just arriving for a terrific night to
celebrate the happy couple's wedding,
guests all in their finery set for a good time.
Good company, lovely atmosphere and
great food, what more could you want.
Even the brief downpour of rain did not stop play.                                                                       




                                                                                                                                                                                                  
Night out with friends from IBR.



Food, beer and good company


Sahiba (President of HDS) and me ..selfie.


                                                                              After....mmmmm that was good.


Our battle against Malaria continues.


Step one: Stop them as they land 


                                                                                   Step two:Anti malarial drugs taken daily.


Step 3: Zap them if they get into the house






Comments from Kris.



Yes, it’s that time of the month again getting ready to publish the blog, wow doesn’t the month fly by.
I now have a new job as a spotter. For anyone who does not know what that is if you watch Ice Road Truckers in India you will get the idea. It really entails me checking for any dangers that Chris cannot see such as oncoming cars (on the wrong side of the road), vehicles coming the wrong way down the road, animals or people in the road, and especially at this time of year potholes or obstacles on the road whilst Chris is driving the jeep. It's actually quite fun but no I don’t hang out of the door like the true spotters but I get close at times.
Everyone the world over pretty much knows what an ATM is and how to use it, but here in Udaipur outside the local Dairy we have a unique ATM. It dispenses Milk products especially useful when the dairy is closed, it was actually out of order for a few weeks and I actually missed it, just shows how we can quickly start relying on services.

I was out the other night on my bike when I saw the most amazing vehicle, not exactly a trike as it had 5 wheels not three. It was made up of three motorbikes, two at the rear complete apart from handlebars with a hand made seat bench between in the centre at the front was another bike complete with handlebars and headlight, it was mega congested with traffic and by the time I pulled over just ahead of him he had turned off so alas no photo. The amazing thing was it looked stable, manoeuvred well was fairly fast and all the bikes were different. I wished Chris had been with me to see it incredible home built Indian style.
Well as the monsoon has hit in full we are getting lots of rain, it’s a great time but does have its problems too. Everything feels damp, clothes, food packets etc., for example, we had a plastic folder on our wooden coffee table overnight and because of the high humidity it had stuck to the table, clothes feel damp and it’s difficult to wash and dry clothes even indoors. Sometimes getting into bed you feel as though the sheets are damp. Nothing we can do about it.
            3 days to dry these jeans and towel
              due to the high humidity levels.

I have to check my food cupboards every other day as the packets can become wet. We have it lucky as so many live in makeshift homes by the side of the road or families live in one room having to live, sleep and eat there and cook outside with wood or whatever they can find. 
The weather also zaps your strength as the high humidity is hard to cope with making it difficult to work or sleep.

Even though the monsoon is welcomed by many it is also a time where there are huge health risks from waterborne diseases, diarrhoea cases increase and hypothermia is common as people get soaked through to their skins and then cannot dry off properly or quickly enough, even more difficult for the homeless or those in poor housing conditions. On a positive note its cooler after the high temperatures of summer and the countryside looks amazingly verdant and beautiful, the animals that wander such as cows, buffalo, goats and street dogs all look healthier as they have plenty of grass and green vegetation to eat. 
Our garden is looking better and the seeds are doing very well, we have a green lawn again....... 

but it badly needs  cutting which is difficult in the rain. 





Mango trees Chris has been growing since last year. There are five of them all growing away happily. They are an F1 variety bred for extra sweetness. Jam coming!

That’s all for this month hope you enjoyed reading.
Take care and God Bless you all
Chris and Kris in a very wet Udaipur







Thursday, 30 June 2016

Update from India 48



Hello again, it's been quite a month for us and the British people.
This month:

Comment.
Monsoon.
The Girls.
Bleu'.
Home.
Water.
Referendum.
Comments from Kris.




Comment
Its 6:30am, I am awake. Do I try and go back to sleep or get up? Well as most would I make the futile attempt to go back to sleep. No dice, so up I get.
Kris is asleep on top of the sheets; the air conditioning is purring away keeping the room at a reasonable 24degC. Bleu' is on her bed under the ac where she always sleeps.
Dressed I head downstairs, the heat and the humidity hits me like a wall. Yes its pre monsoon, and last evening we had one of our first storms that seem to precede the monsoon proper. A look at the thermometer we have by the front door confirms the temperature as 32degC (90degF) relatively cool after the summer heat of anything up to 50degC (120+ degF). It’s the humidity that makes the air feel ‘thick’, it’s almost so thick you can touch it. Out with the smart phone, yep its 30% and rising, going to be a sweaty day!
After last evening's storm the electricity company has repairs to do so the power has just gone off. Thankfully a few weeks ago we invested in an inverter, a device with huge batteries that charges when the power is on and supplies power when it goes off. One problem though, we cannot pump water to the main tank as that is more load than it can supply. Have to be very careful until the power comes on not to use too much. So it’s don’t flush the toilet for liquids, no shower and the washing up can wait. If we have to we can use a bucket to lift water from our underground cistern, but it’s a pain to do.
The sweat is already starting to run down my back, my shirt is getting wet, a condition it will remain in for most of the day. I have long since learned not to bother with jeans unless I am going out. Undershorts are the norm for everyone at home this time of year.
Bleu' arrives followed by Kris, the aircon has gone off (I know) and the ceiling fan isn’t keeping the room cool enough to sleep.
Kris is wearing a T shirt and an old pair of my beach shorts, she is already sweating.
After a look at the chickens and topping their food and water up, Bleu' gets her breakfast outside. The concrete burns our feet, retreat and put on sandals, move Bleu's food into a shady spot. The sun is already burning off any moisture that remains from last evening's storm, the heat is relentless.
Inside again, hiding with the ceiling fans on I think about our choice to come here to live and work as we can to help those less fortunate than ourselves. It has been hard at times, we have both had malaria (it nearly killed me once) numerous Delhi bellies, bites, sores and other infections. After nearly four years here would we change anything, would we choose to return to the UK?
This is an easy question to answer. No, given the choice we will never leave this wonderful country that we have come to love so much. where we have found happiness and purpose in our lives. The people are generous and helpful of strangers, and can be so touched by a simple small gift.
There is so much we still want to do here, we do what we can but always feel that we are called on by God to do more. As often as we can we try to help in any way we can.
We will never be well off but we can live comfortably on our pension while still finding money to help others.
We consider ourselves blessed to be so rich in our life and the work we are doing here.

It's 1pm, still no power. Another wonderful day in our new home, thank you, Lord, for sending us here.

Footnote: The power came back on at 10pm.

Monsoon
I suppose to most people who don’t live in a tropical climate the thought of two months or so of rain doesn’t seem so nice.
When you live in India 52 weeks of the year your opinion changes radically. Gone is the complaint ‘oh it’s raining again’ to be replaced with ‘Wow, yippee rain’. I suppose the 120degF 50degC summer temperature and the parched dry of the land is bound to change your perspective on things. Summer, if you can cope with it (many foreigners head to their cooler home countries to escape) is a time of dry, beautiful but harsh country as only a desert state can be. Weather that is quite capable of killing you is something you learn to respect very quickly. For instance, we never go anywhere without water in summer. Drinking 4-5 liters a day is not unusual, this is in addition to tea coffee etc. Every shop offers you water, it's the first thing you offer visitors to your home, delivery people, even passers-by.  It is a duty to give others water if they need it.
In honesty, you could walk into any shop and ask for water and it would be freely given. Barrels are put out in the shade for drinking. Water here is life.
Road temperatures can easily reach 65degC in the full sun melting tarmac and blistering bare feet.
The animals and birds suffer badly; you can see weight falling off the cattle as grazing disappears. The street dogs just lay in the shade all day. The only things up and about are snakes, buzzards, and lizards during the day. In the evening or at night, everything hunts for water and food. We being softies put out water and feed some of the dogs. It is lovely to see birds coming to the water bowl to drink in the evenings. Overnight the water usually all disappears.




Sodis (solar water disinfection) has kept us in pure safe water now for nearly four years,
no chemicals and no electricity. Using the usual reverse osmosis water purifier a tremendous amount
of water is wasted and electricity used. Here Kris has just removed the bottom row. She will now put 
unsterilised water on the top row. this is a daily ritual that gives us 22liters of pure water each day
at zero cost and zero waste.

Now all that has changed, in only three days of rain grass that was tinder dry is green again pushing up shoots from its deep roots. Flowers bloom, birds are hunting flies in the evening. Cattle and buffalo wander contentedly on the greening land. It seems as though the whole world has suddenly awoken and burst into life.



Temperatures are now down to the mid 80degF

LOOK CLOUDS!



Monsoon has arrived Yippee!

Above, day one of rain, below day 5.













Bleu' enjoying her first monsoon         

After only a few days of rain the garden is blossoming once again.

Banana, cut down just before the monsoon.
It only crops on new growth, and then you
have to cut it back each season.


 
Five days of growth
if you stand there you have the feeling that you can see it growing!

    Flowers are popping up on a daily basis below a selection of some of the beautiful flowers in our garden. it is really amazing to see how quickly they flower after a few days of rain.






We didn't even know these bulbs were there until they popped up.




Hows this for an insect invitation!



















New papaya trees ready for planting out






Girls




Growing on well now, we are beginning to spot the cocks in the group. they will be sold which will cover the cost of buying them all.
















Bleu'

Bleu’ has a boyfriend! Yes, that’s Mouti/tripod. They have become friends, probably because we are friends with him. As you can see they play together and even mouti gets groomed.

He has started walking around from our old house with a friend when he walks his dog. He then waits until they leave and comes in for his supper and some fuss and games of chase with Bleu'.








  He's not silly, is he! Food, a friend and fuss.






Home

It’s that time of year again.....Kris is doing the cupboards and a spring clean. Why does monsoon relate to spring? It’s got to be a woman thing. Perhaps because of all the summer dust?
I am desperately trying to keep from underfoot in case I get mowed down.
Kitchen and main room first it seems. Oh and just in case you thought I was going to get away unscathed it seems we need some new shelves in the kitchen and a wipe board for notes to self!







 Water.

Our well has water in it again, a bit cloudy but that will soon clear as it fills properly over the next two months.
Lots of tourists all looking at the lakes now filling. This actually is part of the problem. People see the full lakes and think that there is no water shortage. Nothing could be further from the truth. Below us unseen is the real problem.
The aquifers that sit under Udaipur haven’t filled for two years now. The level last year at the end of the monsoon was 17% down. That doesn’t sound a lot does it? However, this is on top of the 14% shortfall from the year before.
It is estimated that within two years 40% of wells will experience dry periods if nothing is done to conserve water. Already some wells that were productive in the past are now dry all year as the aquifer shrinks.
The increasing population is in part responsible, as is the belief here that water is a ‘free’ resource to be used when needed by anyone. More hotels are going up for the tourist trade, industry is using more (although they pay for their water) and the continued waste from leaking pipes has to account for some waste. Even now as the government warns of the deepening water crisis in the country some charities are still drilling new wells to ‘help’ people. In the short term it does, the problem comes later, so as is human nature, ignore it now and hope.
We are both praying for a good monsoon this year. If it is a poor one as it has been for the last few years the water shortage here may become critical this summer.



This is being pumped from 350feet down. The black pipe is a cross feed to/from the underground cistern.The bowl is for the birds and animals that visit. A few more days and we will move it until the rains stop.

Referendum.
Like many others, I have very firm opinions about the result.
Over the last few weeks, I have posted on social media, argued various points with friends, and researched the topic to come to my conclusion and how I should vote.
The vote has now been taken, a majority result known. Many do not agree with it.
How as a Christian do I react to the flow of accusations of lies, half-truths and miss information both sides accuse the other of.
To begin with, I joined in vigorously defending my point of view. This I now believe was a mistake. Yes, by all means, object if there is wrongdoing, but having done so remember the words of Luke:
Luke 6:37 
Do not judge and you will not be judged. Do not condemn, and you will not be condemned. Forgive, and you will be forgiven. 

I have through prayer come to the conclusion that it is not now my place to accuse or judge those that I feel have wronged me, or the British people. Having voiced my opinion I am now stepping back and leaving judgement in the hands of God.
It is difficult, really difficult to do this when I want to attack in return those that are attacking me.
As a friend says: ‘it is easy to talk the talk, less so to walk the walk’.
My faith is all encompassing, to truly serve God I believe you must be prepared to put your faith in Him and pray for those you believe have wronged you and forgive them their sin.
Mark 11:25
And when you stand praying, if you hold anything against anyone, forgive him, so that your Father in heaven may forgive you your sins.

Mark states it clearly and succinctly, how can anyone misinterpret what he is saying? It is a clear instruction to put your trust in the Lord and forgive if you in turn want forgivnes.

I have now withdrawn from the debate for these reasons.
I shall pray that those who need to see their wrongdoing and are honest in their confession of it. Only in this way can they be forgiven by our Lord.
I will also pray that those who continue to accuse and argue that they see the message of Jesus and step back from judging others.



Comments from Kris
Here we are again, doesn’t time fly.
The other day I went out on my scooter to go to the bank and do a little shopping locally when I got onto the main road I felt the back end of the bike swing out, and Yes, I got a puncture. I returned home and was met by Vijay who works at the local resort he helped push my bike then his kids took over and wheeled it home for me. Really nice friendly boys who we know quite well, and very happy to help me in my time of need.
The Indian people see this as their duty and would be offended if you tried to pay, so I accepted the help with a smile and thank you. I remain overwhelmed by the genuineness and kindness of people here. This is my first puncture in India, I knew a good tyre repair shop in the city so Chris removed the wheel when I got home and I took the wheel and tyre to get repaired. It’s quite fascinating watching Indians do these repairs with minimal tools but they are very quick and efficient. If you had seen the size of the nail that caused the problem you’d be shocked I was and the repair guy was amazed at its length, about the length of a hat pin but thinner. It ripped a large hole in the inner tube, not repairable, need a new inner tube. Job done, all for under £3, which, included a new inner tube, not bad eh.
As Chris says the monsoon is great, but there are a few problems to contend with as the humidity is high the drying of clothes is more of a trial. You have to get the washing done, hung on the line and hopefully the sun will stay out long enough to get it dry, or as happened yesterday you get it on the line, dried partially then the heavens open and its saturated before you can get it in. I gave in and left it there but today hooray it’s dry. (I normally do not leave washing on the line when it’s raining).
I’ve been very domesticated this month making many meals to freeze, such as chicken masala, liver and onions, mutton masala and several mutton pies in short crust pastry. It means if we have been to work we do not need to start cooking, we just pop a meal out of the freezer and it’s done. It also is more economical to cook in bulk. Chris really loves my pies and I have to say it is great and the pastry is so rich and yummy.
I have more plans for cooking and freezing meals just looking for some interesting recipes.
Chris made liver pate which he loves and it was very tasty, he’s eaten it all now so is planning to make some more.
Yes, I am having a spring clean of the house and cupboards are being cleared of unessential items and these are being given to the recycle man so not wasted. Good job we no longer have a maid, Amber Bai would have despaired at me doing the housework. She is now working full time back at the resort which is more money for her and her family. We still see her and she pops around sometimes or waves to us from the resort. We will be getting her to catch the cockerels soon and then she will sell them in her village and we will split the proceeds.

Chris sent the vegetable seed order off today, mostly 'English vegetables' that we grow through the Indian winter as the daily temperature is very similar to an English summer.
We will show you what we got next month.

That’s all for this month, hope you enjoyed reading it.
Take care and God Bless you all,
Chris and Kris